At Cafe Loki, best place in town.
Cold: I don’t know how to do cold, as much as it THRILLS me to my frostbitten toes. Half the time I was sweating, the other half I was missing some necessary parts of my clothing. On the very first day, I lost my favorite hat (only hat!) knitted out of my very first handspun yarn. Once I didn’t wear tights under my skirt and almost froze off some things I prefer to keep. I kept waiting until we got outside to replace all the layers I’d taken off inside (inside the bus, inside the cafe) which wasn’t ideal, but I still don’t really understand the method of dressing-for-cold.
Raincoats! WHO KNEW? (Oh, you did. Of course you did.) They’re awesome! Screw the umbrella, just put on the coat and go! (I literally think the last time I wore one I was about eight years old.)
Adventure pants: Ditto! I bought them because Extreme Iceland said to get some for the glacier walk. I thought I’d never wear them again, but I’ve already worn them three times. You get to go tumble around in the wet and have fun! I’m honestly looking forward to El Niño and winter dog hikes in California now.
The South Coast:
We spent two days on a bus tour guided by a wonderful man named Ásgeir who had the kindest eyes I think I have ever seen. Somehow, he was able to spend two days with perfect strangers and make them believe he was excited to do it. He was darling and I want him to be my friend, and he promised if we didn’t see the Northern Lights, he’d take us himself next time. I didn’t see the lights, Ásgeir. When’s good for you?
Glacier hike:
So, we get to the glacier and learn how to put on crampons (spikes for the bottoms of your boots which is so hardcore I can’t even handle how awesome that is). Ásgeir teaches us how not to fall off a mountain by holding your ice axe at the ready. This makes me nervous, in a fluttery, pit-of-the-stomach way. If someone can fall off a glacier, it will probably be me.
“Take your time. Walk heavily. Pound each step.”
I take the first few steps slowly to judge how the crampons hold. When my feet feel secure, I relax and move forward. Lala, behind me, has a harder time because she grew up around ice. She knows that to walk on blue ice which has flowing water underneath the cap could be dangerous and her body tells her to stop! Retreat! My body tells me to go forward, go faster, see more.
It’s cold. It rains a bit. We hike out on three-thousand year old ice that has carved the area into the stunning geological landscape it is today.
The dirt in the ice is dirt the glacier has dragged off the mountains. It’s where the mountains went.
There is a tour group ahead of us in this picture. Can you find them?
We walk into a crevasse as narrow as our shoulders and we can see INTO the ice. We are inside a massive ice cube made for a drink the size of the sun.
The second guide chips ice with his axe above us to simulate a mini-avalanche. We shriek delightedly. A sliver of ice hits my cheek and leaves a gash which I’m exceedingly proud of. (Lala says, “I’ve seen rock-filled snowballs hit people a million times. No one has ever BLED because of it.”)
As we leave the ice a perfect 90 minutes later, Ásgeir is as lit up and excited as I am. He lives here and is still knocked out by the scenery’s magnificence. I think there’s nothing better than loving what you do for a living, and all I want to do is listen to him talk. I knit him a hat with local wool on the bus, but I can’t weave in the ends since I have no needle in my bag. He says his mother will do it for him, but she’ll be jealous another woman is knitting for him. My crush on him flutters in my chest. (Lala doesn’t mind my crush. We’re good that way.) This is a picture Lala took of him. You might flutter a bit, too:
ICEBERGS:
Are amazing. They are REALLY BLUE. I always kind of thought they were photo-filtered. But no.
I SAY, HELLO! I can’t say too much more about them because they were out of the range of imagination. I hope you get to see them, that’s my wish for you.
Food: Dried fish and butter is amazing. I ate a bite of whale. I tried the shark, and dude, it wasn’t as bad as Anthony Bourdain made it out to be! It smelled like death on a toothpick, but tasted like strong cheese. I wouldn’t do it again, but glad I did once. Smoked trout is amazing:
Icelandic horses. Don’t call them ponies because they aren’t baby horses. They’re short but very strong (like me!). They have five–not the normal four–gaits: they have the very special tölt, which is a very smooth trot. I totally did it and didn’t fall off. My horse and I were simpatico, and I got nuzzles afterward. Also: THEY ROLL IN THE DIRT a lot. Like border collies at the beach. Although they wait for you to dismount, which is very polite of them.
Yarn: We took a bus to Alafoss and bought yarn. A lopi for each of us is in our future. I absolutely love how every Icelander wears his Lopapyesa with pride, without irony. It is his, and he loves it, and his mother made it, and it’s warm.
Darling Stephanie! We had such a great time with her and Rob!
HOT TUBS.
How to behave at the public geothermal pools in Iceland.
First of all, go to the Blue Lagoon. Sure, it’s expensive and crowded but worth it for the experience. Plus, SWIM-UP BAR. Life achievement unlocked. (I only had a juice but it was magical, I’m telling you.) Also, eating in Lava in your robe while most everyone else is wearing (nice) street clothes makes you feel like a rock star in the very best way:
But even better than the tourist-filled geothermal waters is going to the local hot pots. They’re where the community gathers, where the elders gossip and where the teens flirt. Great guide here.
We went to the Secret Pool, Lauguar Spa, Laugardalslaug, Vesturbæjarlaug and Sundhöllin. Vesturbæjarlaug was by far our favorite, with its big hot tubs and jets so strong they have handles to hang on to when in use. We went a couple of times there. Björk goes to that one, you know. It’s the best.
I love this about all of the tubs we went to: people are hanging out together, being people, in their bodies. All body shapes are represented with no shame. Strangers chat naked in the shower. They chat in the baths. Tummies hang out. That woman over there has big breasts and a large bum. That guy is skinny. Everyone looks great, exactly as they should look. That ease with the body must make for a happier society, don’t you think?
Two important things to know about the swimming pools:
1 – Bathe first, naked. There’s no faking this. Wash the important bits WITH SOAP: head, pits, bottom, and feet.
Use this for reference:
Never have I seen so many strangers scrubbing their asses so thoroughly. Americans wouldn’t do this, and THAT’s why we can’t have nice things like non-chlorinated pools. Iceland’s geothermal water is magic, and non-chlorinated, so wash, please. If you don’t, an attendant will make sure you do. Then put on your suit and go out into the cold where the heated water will make you feel more alive than you’ve ever felt.
2 – Shower again afterward and dry off before you go into the changing room. They keep those floors dry and clean and it’s so much better than the damp locker room floors I remember from high school and my old membership gym. Again, you’ll be reminded if you forget to do this. I like to do things right (to an obsessive degree, I can admit this), so I enjoy knowing the rules.
Home again.
We’re home, and I’m back in the swing of things. I have copyedits due this week to Random House Australia on a book that comes out next year, and NaNoWriMo starts in two days. At the day (and night) job, I’ve got a 73-hour shift this weekend (you may be falling back, but that means an extra hour of work for night-shifters). But I’m happy. Heart-deep happy.
And I’m so damn lucky it hurts.
Marcy says
Great post! I will never get to Iceland so it was very interesting. Glad you had such a great time.
Julia says
Okay, I read through all the live tweets during your trip, and I thought “adventure pants” was a euphemism for “the pants I will wear whilst adventuring”.
I just did a quick search and am gobsmacked to see THAT’S THEIR ACTUAL NAME! And it’s a TYPE of pant too, not just a trademarked one, so I could go into any outdoors-y store and ask for “adventure pants” and they wouldn’t laugh at me. Who knew? 🙂
Catherine says
That”s exactly what I thought about the pants!
JudithNYC says
Now I want to go to Iceland more than ever! Thank you for sharing.
Don’t feel about about not figuring the dressing for cold issue. I am Puerto Rican, have spent 37 winters state-side and am just beginning to figure it out. And I still don’t understand how people just sit on the bus with their overcoats, hats, scarves, mittens, etc on. I start peeling off clothing as soon as I see my bus approaching.
Kim says
I would love to go to Iceland. As it is, I’ve been to Newfoundland, which had icebergs, and they are stupendous.
I love the public bath vibe. I am a frequenter of my local Korean Spa (you probably have one that you don’t know about in your own community) that is a relaxed public bath.
Inga K. says
Hi there Rachael.
I am so glad to hear that you like my country. I have been reading your blog for a long time and have enjoyed it very much. Good for you to buy some Lopi yarn. I knit a lot from it, and it is both warm and soft.
Stephen says
Isn’t it an amazing place? I kind of never want to travel anywhere else. I fell in love with it. C keeps asking when we can go back. Thank you for sharing your trip online. I loved seeing you at places I’ve been to (and pray to return to again). You make me want to knit my lopi… three lopapeysas down, many more to go!
Stephen says
Oh! One more thing! John Grant is playing tonight at The Independent. He went to Iceland for the first time when I went there, and proceeded to move there and record his second album there. Do yourselves (and me) a favor, and go listen to a song or two or three on YouTube: Glacier, Where Dreams Go to Die, Queen of Denmark, Disappointing. So many good ones. Or listen to this: http://www.npr.org/sections/allsongs/2015/10/23/450926316/all-songs-1-a-discussion-with-neko-case-and-john-grant
Stephanie says
OMG, his album was EVERYWHERE there. I think Rob and I went to every record store in Reykjavik and it was front and center at all of them. I became a little obsessed with that loopy cover, I have to admit. Now that I have some background, it’s even better. Thank you!
Marie says
What a delightful post. I can feel your excitement and happiness coming off the page in waves. Thank you for sharing your trip.
Lynn in Boise says
I was in Iceland in early August so a bit warmer then, but it rained a lot. My big surprise was when I showed up for the South Coast Tour and then found out it included a 3 hour glacier hike. I was totally not prepared for it, but was able to rent boots so I survived. Soaked to the skin by the time we got back to the bus, but didn’t fall in any crevices. I’d go back anytime. Nicest people ever!
schwartz joe spa world says
Valuable information. Fortunate me I discovered your website by chance, and I am
surprised why this twist of fate did not came about in advance!
I bookmarked it.
Susan says
My husband and I just booked a trip for our 20th anniversary mid September. I am so excited! I remembered you had gone so i came back to look up what you had to say.